A Dozen Safety Tips for a Holiday in Sicily

I have read articles in the UK travel press by journalists who, overwhelmed by their own intrepidity, actually visited Sicily and came back alive! They described their holidays as if they had toured Palestine with an Israeli flag draped over their backpack. You are 27 times more likely to get murdered in America than in Sicily, so I think they are being rather ridiculous.

Meanwhile, all the self-serving websites that sell holidays tell you “Sicily is one of the safest holiday destinations in the world,” which may be a slight exaggeration. Its cities are among the safest in Europe, but you still don’t want to walk around being a total dummy.

What is Palermo really like for tourists? I’ve lived here 10 years and they still think I’m a tourist, so here it is from the horse’s mouth.

1. Managing money

DO always check your change. Many Sicilians will rip you off. Don’t take it personally – they do it to each other, too, even in supermarkets. Look at the digital till display instead of trusting what the cashier asks for.

DO take travellers’ cheques as a plan B. When travelling abroad, I usually use ATMs to avoid carrying large sums of cash. Yet on many occasions, all Sicilian cash points refused to give me money from my UK bank account for several days. Sometimes they imposed a tiny daily limit. When I phoned my UK bank, they said it was out of their control.

DO ask your hotel receptionist to keep spare cash in the hotel safe (put it in a sealed envelope) and only take out what you need each day.

cockney atm
Now where’s a cash point that speaks cockney when you need one?

 

2. Do many people in Sicily speak English?

I’ve been teaching them for ten years. I’ve tried, really I have.

But sorry, NO, you’ll be very lucky to find a Sicilian who speaks anything resembling good English. Bring a phrase book and practise sign language, because they’re great at that.

Wag this up and down. It means “Ten euros for a punnet of strawberries? Who d’ya think you’re kidding?” You can use it in any situation to mean “WTF?”

 

3. When is the best time of year to come?

DON’T come in August. Italy is closed in August. Hotels, restaurants, clinics and even hospital departments will be replaced by a “closed for August” sign.

Do come in May-June or September-October to enjoy sweat-free sightseeing and cancer-free sunbathing. Avoid the last week of May which is school outing season, unless you enjoy being surrounded by marauding hooligans armed with ice lollies.

You may get some fab winter sun, enjoying pavement cafes in December, but check the weather forecasts because some years it’s rainy and miserable.

This says “Closed for the holidays from now till Dunno”

 

4. Are there Public Toilets?

Nearly all Sicilian bars will let you use their toilet even if you are not a customer. All they require is that you ask politely for the key (behind the bar) and that you leave the place clean.

 

5. How dangerous is it to walk to walk the streets by day?

I can’t promise nobody will pick your pocket, but it is far less likely than in many European or American cities.  (I am going on UN stats here.) Some poorer neighbourhoods in Palermo look like Aleppo after heavy bombing yet I have wandered about them alone many times – looking radiantly white and foreign in my flowery skirts – and always been fine.

There’s a neighbourhood in Palermo called Lo Zen (close to a touristy beach resort called Mondello) and you must not go there. You would suffer a fate far worse than getting your pocket picked.

Does your guide book tell you to visit Palermo’s Vucciria market? Here’s one end of it.

 

DO Take the same precautions you would take in other European cities. If you usually carry your valuables in a handbag on your shoulder at home, do the same in Sicily because you’re more likely to protect it instinctively when distracted. If you specially buy a money belt or sew secret cash pockets inside your underpants, you’ll get yourself in a muddle, and thieves will notice.

DO Keep a photocopy of your passport somewhere separate from the real thing, just in case the worst should happen. [I’ve been told by a helpful commentator that it has to be a colour photocopy.]

DON’T use the word “Mafia” in public in Sicily. As a foreigner you are in NO DANGER WHATSOEVER from organised crime and you have no reason to talk about it. The M-word is something Sicilians won’t appreciate you saying.

6. Can you walk around at night?

Sicilian women would not walk around Palermo or other big Sicilian cities alone at night. They go out with their husband or boyfriend. For couples, or men, it’s as safe as any other town in Europe.

I think the main reason Sicilian women do not go out alone is because of the family oriented culture, rather than because it is unsafe. The rate of sex crimes in Italy is one quarter of the rate in the USA, for example. Is that anything to do with the fact serious sex crimes carry a mandatory life sentence in Italy?

7. How can I avoid looking like a tourist?

You can’t. Some websites advise tourists to avoid flapping their street maps around. I’ve also read a “top tip” that you should buy a Sicilian newspaper, to look like a local.

Sicilians can tell you’re foreign no matter what you do, no matter how you dress, and no matter how far away you are. How they do it is a complete mystery to me. But it doesn’t matter. If you stand around gazing at a map and looking perplexed, some passer by will offer to accompany you to your destination, as an excuse to practise their English.

8. Do the men harass women?

In general, less than the men in other parts of Italy. We probably have the reputation of Sicilian fathers to thank for this! They are still Italians though – refer to my top tips on handling Italian men for specialist advice!

When Italian men pester you, it is almost always just that – irritation, not danger.

Ciao bella! Wanna bunga bunga with me?

 

9. Any advice on clothing?

DO bring flat or clumpy wedge-heeled shoes. Sicilian towns are full of cobbled streets. I once got my heel jammed between a pair of cobbles while crossing the road, and had to unbuckle the ankle strap and run to the pavement barefoot while a line of cars shot towards me at terminal velocity.

Only bring natural fibres in summer. It’s humid as well as hot. If the label says anything other than cotton or viscose, don’t pack it. It does NOT cool down at night, so you won’t wear warmer things in the evening.

If you come in winter, you DO need jumpers and a coat. It’s not the tropics.

 

10. Skin protection

DO bring sun block from home. Sun screen in Italy is unbelievably expensive and often expired stock from abroad that doesn’t actually work.

DO buy insect repellent locally. They sell very effective organic repellent made from essential oils.

Do protect yourself from ticks. If you plan to go hiking in the undergrowth, you should be aware that Sicily has ticks which carry Mediterranean Spotted Fever and a few other nasty infections. Smother yourself in every toxic insecticide available.

Do bring antihistamine cream and painkillers. If you want to know how much they would cost you here, add a zero onto the price you would pay at home.

11. Car rental

Many areas in most cities in Sicily have “parking assistants” who will ask you for a euro when you park your car in a public street. This will be your only opportunity, as a tourist, to interact with the Mafia! If you refuse to pay this protection money, you may return to find your car has been broken into. If you find one area strangely free of parking attendants, beware. It will be designated a free-for-all zone where any petty criminal may steal anything he wants.

Some Mafia parking attendants ask for your car key, like valet parking, so they can shuffle cars around and let people out. Mua ha haaa! I’ve never left my car keys with a stranger in the street.

If the whole town is Mafia-free, though, with no illegal “posteggiatori” at all, you are safe to leave the car anywhere.

EDIT: In this post I originally recommended paying one euro to be safe, but a Palermo local shamed me, and said we should stand up to them. He photographs them instead. DO go and see his pictures of these scammers.

I have some German friends who pretend to be daft tourists who do not understand requests for money, and take a photo of the Mafia parking attendant so they can show the police if anything does happen to their car.

DON’T leave valuables in your car. Certainly not visible and preferably not in the boot either, unless you know you’re in a posh neighbourhood.

12. So what is dangerous in Sicily?

The drivers, of course. Look both ways each time you cross the road. Always expect the unexpected, whether you are on foot or driving a car. They sometimes go up the pavement you know.

+++++

If you are planning a trip to Sicily and have specific questions, write them in the comments box, and I promise to answer you. 

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248 thoughts on “A Dozen Safety Tips for a Holiday in Sicily

  1. My daughter is traveling to Sicily for an international dance festival .She is 14 years old traveling with other girls of same age and a few teachers.
    I wanted to know how safe is it for young girls traveling in Sicily as it is not a compulsory trip can be avoided.
    Any safety tips you can suggest .

    Liked by 1 person

    1. That sounds like a wonderful experience and I hope she has a great time! I can’t remember the official statistics, but Sicily is something like 23 times safer for teenage girls and women than the USA, for example, from the point of view of crimes specifically against women. Sicilians are extremely protective of all children and I think it is a very safe place for children to go. If she wears noticeable make-up or clothing designed to look sexy, and looks older than she is, she may get young men trying to flirt with her, but if she looks her age that would definitely not happen. In terms of having person items stolen, she just needs to be sensible, as she would be anywhere, and I assume she will be guided by the teachers.
      I think she will have a great time, and that you have nothing to worry about.

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      1. Hi, I’m a single mum travelling with a five year old girl to Catania for the vicinity… What are some safety tips specific to this you can advice please?

        Liked by 1 person

      2. Nothing in particular, it’s honestly very safe. Just apply the type of logic you would apply to any place, i.e. Stick to well trafficked areas after dark rather than empty alleys, hold her hand firmly when crossing the road, write “Mamma” and your mobile number on her arm just in case.
        You’ll find Sicilians will probably want to spoil her by giving her sweets etc, or kissing her. This is culturally normal in Sicily so be tactful if you don’t want them to.

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    1. I am sure you’ll manage, though even Sicilians sometimes get done over by other Sicilians so I don’t know a protection against that! Luckily it’s usually in trivial amounts, so use your common sense and try not to worry too much!

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  2. My wife and I are planning a two week road trip around Sicily in early October 2018. We did a similar road trip around Portugal a couple of years ago and I was wondering if we should expect any surprises in Sicily? From what I read on your site, Sicily sounds like a great place to visit.

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      1. By surprises, I meant is a driving trip around the island safe? Are the roads in fair condition, well signed and are the small towns welcoming to visitors?

        Liked by 1 person

      2. Small towns are usually delightful, the signposting is mostly terrible and the condition of the roads is highly variable!
        When Sicily gets rain it can be like a monsoon, and then the sun routinely melts the tarmac each summer which goes gooey then resets repeatedly, which means a road can develop a hole the size of a Fiat 500 virtually overnight.
        Most of the time you will be fine, but discuss your planned route with locals whenever you get the chance so you can be forewarned and choose an alternative if necessary.
        We drove all over Sicily all the time and it was almost always absolutely fine.

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  3. Hi we are visiting Sicily end of July and I was wondering a few things:
    – Any areas of Palermo that we shouldnt visit?
    – Nice Restaurants you could recommend near Alcamo where we are staying
    – Recommendations on vineyards to visit?

    Thanks very much.

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    1. Hello!
      The only area Palermo to avoid is called Lo Zen. It’s fairly near a lovely and very posh beach resort, called Mondello, so just don’t plan on driving through the Zen to get there!
      I can’t think of any specific restaurants in Alcamo, but it is near the sea so try asking the locals which restaurants specialise in fish. Make sure you choose one full of locals.
      Vineyards! You know Sicilians don’t really do that visiting a vineyard thing, but in that region of Sicily you are in luck as you can go to Marsala and tour the marsala wine factory. Make sure you visit the traditional salt farms though, that’s beautiful and the number one thing to do in that area.
      Have a lovely holiday!

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  4. hello, so no issue with MAFIA unless you dill with theme right? so, it is better to park with them instead leave the car without paying, 2nd, we are religious, this is okay for sicilia residents?

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    1. I always paid because I was scared of what might happen if I didn’t. It’s not a thing I am proud of, but I would say, to avoid stress, just pay them. But ONLY pay 1 euro and laugh if they ask for more. And take a photo of them.

      I don’t understand your question about being religious? Of you mean that Sicilians are religious but they still pay this money, then yes, I would say there is religion, but there is also fear.

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  5. Hi travelling to Cefalu today for 2weeks question on what to wear,have packed skirts and t shirts/ summer dresses for day wear but really sure for evening.Do people wear dresses in the evening or is it too cool or over dresses have put a few pairs of skinny pants in what do you think. Thanks

    Like

    1. Take layers. It’s likely to be very watm even in the evening, but you may want a light Cardigan with sleeves to fend off mosquitoes. And you never know if there will be a cooler day.

      Have a lovely trip!

      Like

  6. Hi! I love your posts, they make fascinating reading. I’m looking at visiting Palermo by myself over the summer (I’m a 35 year old bloke), and was just after some advice on which is the best area to stay in the city so I can search for hotels in that area please. I’d like to be central, and reasonably close to the train station as I’ll be doing some exploring of the island by train. Any help would be appreciated!

    Like

    1. Anywhere near the centre is fine, really.
      If your budget can stretch to it, the Grand Hotel et Des Palmes in Via Roma is absolutely gorgeous. Book early because it gets filled quite far in advance!

      Like

  7. Hello,
    Αwesome post for information.

    Quickquestion, Am I having any safety issue (besides the other drivers) if I travel fro Brindisi to Catania at once to catch the ferry to Malta with a Motorbike?

    I am asking for the Cisilian part of the root.

    Thanks in advance 🙂

    Like

    1. I can’t think of any problems you might have. Sicilians use motorbikes so much that I think you are safer on a bike in Sicily than you would be in a lot of other places.
      Just check ticket prices online because they are sometimes cheaper if you buy them in advance, and I think sometimes in summer they get fully booked.

      Have a lovely trip!

      Like

  8. Hi Veronica

    Just come across your post and thank you….. very informative and a very interesting read!!

    I was hoping you could kindly give me some advice……

    I very recently decided to pack up work etc and come to Sicilia on my own. I have decided to initially stay in Marsala, so I have booked an apartment for three months. It is my intention to travel to other areas of Sicilia, and maybe stay longer if I find somewhere I feel ‘at home’. I have never been to Sicily before, Io parlo un po d’italiano – and I really do mean ‘un po’ (but I am frantically studying every day, to try to learn more) and I do not know anyone here.

    Unsurprisingly, I have found not many Sicilians speak any Inglese in Marsala, not even in the local shops.

    So firstly, do you know the area of Marsala? if so, are there any cafes / restaurants you could recommend, where perhaps they speak a little English.

    Secondly, do you know of any Italian language classes I could attend, and roughly what the cost is likely to be?

    Finally, I am from London, so am used to living in and around a busy city. One of the attractions of coming Marsala was the peace and tranquility, and the fact it doesn’t seem like a ‘touristy’ area (I wanted to submerge myself into a Sicilian culture, spend time studying the language, but also concentrate on the childrens books I am writing). However, I am sure after a while I will miss some of the hustle and bustle of London, so although I want the beautiful Sicilian weather, culture etc, I would ideally like to be in a slightly busier area. I know my ‘wish list’ is rather extensive, but could you please recommend somewhere… slightly busier, easy access to a lovely sandy beach, cafes / restaurants / supermarkets within walking distance, where it would be safe to walk home alone in the early evening, and where I would meet at least some English speaking Sicilians.

    Thank you again for your great posts, all the advice and information you give!

    Grazie mille 🙂

    Like

  9. Hi – is public transportation (trains and buses) reliable in Sicily? We would like to tour the island during the first two weeks of July and would not want to rent a car.

    Thank you!

    Liked by 1 person

  10. Have been in Sicily twice back in the 90’s all over the island by bus, train…and hitchhiking. People were very helpful driving us around and carrying our luggage even invited to stay over at the country house as long as me and my girlfriend wanted. But be careful, do not trust too easily. We got feed while staying alone at a country house and slept all day drugged by our host, lost complete memory for a few days and made our way out in the heat for miles until we found a train station. Kidnapping tourist for ransom from parents can happen, beware…Overwise Sicily is worth to see, the Ancient Architecture, many style period and the beaches are spectacular.

    Like

  11. Hilariously usefull article!
    I’m travelling to Catania this Friday (6am 😣) & staying for a night before moving on to Messina, then catching the hydrofoil to stromboli for a week.
    I was wondering if you could advise on the best way to travel between Catania & Messina please?
    Google maps isn’t very forthcoming with public transport details…
    Thank you,
    Kat.

    Like

    1. Oh dear, you’ve chosen the side of Sicily that I don’t know so well.
      But first look at the Trenitalia website for times and prices.
      Then rummage about the results of this Google search of coach companies and ticket agencies:
      https://www.google.it/search?source=hp&ei=zUwxW67MMZLykgWs37L4DA&q=catania+messina+pullman&oq=catania+messina+pullman&gs_l=mobile-gws-wiz-hp.3..0i19l2j0i22i30i19l3.1919.7775..8092…0….127.1778.21j2……0….1…….3..0j41j46j46i131j0i131j0i22i30j0i22i10i30i19.u%2F5isJDeurM%3D

      Like

  12. Finally, the day came when I get to visit beautiful Sicily! I’m travelling with 2 friends of mine (3 women, we are 29) first week of August and I wonder if you had anything to recommend, in particular we are after fun and nightlife scene. We will of course do all the historical attractions, which are easy to find, especially with help of such great blogs like yours! Whereas the good atmosphere and ‘places to be’ are not that obvious to spot and not found in any guidebook. I mean not just touristy loud places but somewhere with good atmosphere where young locals go. We have a choice of staying: between Pachino and Syracuse; Taormina; Near Cefalu or near Palermo. I wonder which is best. Many thanks, Eliza

    Liked by 1 person

    1. If you want night life you need to stay in Cefalù or Taormina.
      In Sicily, the “in” places change every summer so you need to find out where everyone is going ince you’re there.
      In both of these places it will be easy to meet people and find things to do in the evening.
      Have a fun trip!

      Like

  13. Hi! My husband and I are planning to travel in Sicily in the next few weeks, around Milazzo area and some islands. I am pregnant and have a healthy pregnancy, hence allowed by my doctor to travel. But just to stay safe – could you suggest any good hospital centres closest to the coast I should be aware of? Any tips on requesting help? Anything specific I should know about medical care? I will of course have an insurance plan.

    Thank you in advance
    – D

    Liked by 1 person

    1. The main thing to know is that Sicilian hospitals look scarily awful, but the doctors are almost all amazingly good.

      I would find out the main nearest hospital with an obstetrics department in each place you stay, just in case.

      Sicilians are lovely to pregnant women. You will be very pampered.

      Sicilians believe birth marks are caused by the mother having a food craving that she couldn’t satisfy. So if anyone is eating when they see a pregnant woman, they offer her some of their food, just in case.
      It’s such a sweet custom and means you will be able to chat to everyone 😀

      Like

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